Eltyubyu: Towers, Memorials and a Gorge

• The name Eltyubyu translates from Balkar as “at the bottom of the valley.”
• The Balkarukov family tower rises above the village and is considered the only example of Svan architecture in the Balkar Mountains.
• Eltyubyu is the birthplace of the poet Kaysyn Kuliev; a museum has been established in the saklya where he was born.
• The “Greek Staircase” is a narrow walking trail in the gorge of the Dzhylgysu River.

The Balkarukov family tower stands above the village. Its architectural classification makes it a distinctive landmark: it is considered the only example of Svan architecture in the Balkar Mountains. Its construction history is a separate matter. According to tradition, the tower was built in the 18th century by craftsmen from Svaneti in Georgia, invited by the Chegem leader Akhtugan. The craftsmen’s origins and the invitation are therefore part of the tradition, while the architectural description characterizes the tower.

Kaysyn Kuliev also shapes the village’s cultural memory. He was born in Eltyubyu, where his memory is honored. A museum has been established in the saklya where he was born. Check current visiting arrangements before your visit rather than assuming specific opening hours or guaranteed access.

In the village center, the mosque stands on the right bank of the mountain river Dzhylgysu, beside the “Book in the Stone” and the “Tower of Love.” Its construction history includes different forms: the former Ak-Mejid Mosque was a wooden building with a dome and a pitched hipped roof in the 19th century. A new mosque was built on the same site in 2012. The modern stone building has two domes, one large and one small.

Another memorial site is “Sto schagow k Kaysynu” (“One Hundred Steps to Kaysyn”). It consists of a stone wall with 100 granite plaques. Lines from Kuliev’s poems are engraved on the plaques in Russian and Karachay-Balkar. The two languages are thus a visible part of the memorial’s design; the lines of poetry also connect it directly with the work of the poet born in Eltyubyu.

The crypt complex known as the “City of the Dead” is located near Eltyubyu. The tombs date from the 14th to the 18th centuries and are described as empty. This distinguishes the site from the memorials in the village: here, the focus is a historic crypt complex, while in the village it is on architectural history and the memory of Kaysyn Kuliev.

The “Greek Staircase” is a narrow walking trail through the picturesque gorge of the Dzhylgysu River and can be reached on foot. If you include it in your plans, the trail’s narrowness is a key difference from visiting the buildings and memorial sites.

The wider destination of the Republic of Kabardino-Balkaria offers other nature and outdoor activity options, distinct from the attractions in Eltyubyu. The Kabardino-Balkarian State High-Mountain Nature Reserve manages a protected area in the Cherek and Chegem districts. It extends along the Greater and Lateral Caucasus ranges and includes the upper reaches of several rivers, including the Chegem. There are four tourist routes in the reserve: “Mizhirgi,” “Shaurtu,” “To the Bezengi Glacier” and “To the Narzan Mineral Spring.”

The period from May to October is specified for the “Mizhirgi,” “Shaurtu” and “To the Narzan Mineral Spring” routes, as well as certain sections of the “To the Bezengi Glacier” route. The “Bezengi Glacier – Lake Boran-Köl” section is designated for July to August. The “To the Bezengi Glacier” route is 26.1 kilometers long and takes three days; its final section crosses the Bezengi Glacier, is rated difficulty level II, and may only be traversed with a mountain guide. Check the current route status and conditions with the reserve before planning your trip.

The Elbrus Resort in the Republic of Kabardino-Balkaria offers a different activity: it has 20 kilometers of slopes of varying difficulty, including wide red, blue and green runs for different skill levels. The described facilities include three gondola lifts and an artificial snowmaking system. The upper Garabashi station is at an altitude of 3,847 meters and can be reached via three gondola lift sections. This gives you a choice of different focuses: culture and memorial sites in Eltyubyu, marked routes in the nature reserve, or slopes at the Elbrus Resort. Check current operating conditions if you plan to use the facilities.

Discover more destinations: Chegem Vtoroy, Nalchik, Tyrnyauz, Aushiger, Terskol, Maisky, Chegem Pervyy, Tegenekli.

What does the name Eltyubyu mean?

The name translates from Balkar as “at the bottom of the valley.”

What is special about the Balkarukov family tower?

It is considered the only example of Svan architecture in the Balkar Mountains. According to tradition, it was built in the 18th century by craftsmen from Svaneti.

What does the “Sto schagow k Kaysynu” memorial look like?

It is a stone wall with 100 granite plaques engraved with lines from Kaysyn Kuliev’s poems in Russian and Karachay-Balkar.

For the broader travel overview: Republic of Kabardino-Balkaria.